Glide into the Everglades: Flamingo Lodge off the Florida beaten path
The ideal escape for getting in tune with nature
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When you picture sunny Florida, you’re probably thinking of mouse ears or crowded Spring Break beaches, but nestled away at the end of a quiet roadway awaits the perfect tranquil getaway.
At the southern-most point on the American mainland lies Flamingo, deep in Everglades National Park.
There’s no shopping, no fine dining, and nowhere to lie down on a towel, but this is the ideal escape for tapping into your inner David Suzuki and getting in tune with nature.
After sustaining damage from several storms over the past two decades, the park had only a temporary visitor centre and camping facilities. It now boasts the brand-new Guy Bradley Visitors Center and the modern Flamingo Lodge – the only hotel property inside the park. (For the more adventurous, there are ‘glamping’ type tents on platforms, house boat rentals that you can also drive, and camping facilities for both tents and trailers on site.)
With activities such as fishing, boating, paddling, and trails for walking and cycling, there is something for every outdoor enthusiast. Head out of the city for a day or two, as the lodge is reachable in about 90 minutes from Miami with a meandering drive through the park, where a curious mix of pine and palm trees line the sleepy roadway.
Scenic lookout areas along the way, such as the Pa-Hay-Okee (Seminole for “grassy waters”) Overlook provide ample opportunities to spot birds, and maybe even an alligator sunning on the grassy bank next to the road.
Upon arrival at the Flamingo Lodge, guests check in at the main desk, located inside the same building as the restaurant. Like the restaurant, guest quarters are situated inside recycled shipping containers built on stilts.
Due to previous damage from flooding during hurricanes and tropical storms that have battered the area, all accommodations are now vaulted off the ground, which provides a convenient parking space for your vehicle (and keeps it out of the sun.) Up the steps and into the rooms, there are standard rooms, as well as one and two-bedroom suites. My one-bedroom suite was equipped with a kitchenette, including a full-size fridge – perfect for chilling a bottle of wine to enjoy while watching the sunset on the balcony overlooking Florida Bay.
After watching the sun come up over the bay the following morning, we headed to breakfast at the lodge restaurant, located at the far end of the lodge property. Breakfast burritos and smoothies are on the menu, as sun shines in the windows on what would be a wintry day back home in Canada. (Note: Wearing shorts when it’s 15C early in the morning nets funny looks from the Floridians.)
After breakfast, walk next door to the Guy Bradley Visitors Centre (named for a game warden who was murdered by poachers!) – leave out the back door and sneak through a foot path located behind the restaurant. The mid-century modern style building features a pink exterior, an homage to Miami’s famed palette, with a breezeway between its two structures, so the view of the water is not obstructed.
Inside the centre, National Park Service employees are on hand to assist with any questions or locating trails for hiking, biking, and the best spots for paddling. Camera in hand, I inquired about where I might find some animals. I’m told the bay immediately outside the windows is a great spot to watch for manatees and birds. While sitting on a bench facing the water, I meet a tricolored heron looking for some lunch. Farther along the path, past the marina building, I am told this is where crocodiles can often be found sunning on the ramps at the boat launch.
While there are more than 300 types of fish, 50 reptile species, and 40 types of mammals found in Everglades National Park, the real draw is the hundreds of bird species, which either make their home in the park or transit through the area on their migrations. Walking toward the boat launches, I came across a massive osprey nest atop a post. Osprey typically return to the same nest every year, and the breeding pair were incubating eggs. The male osprey was bringing twigs and bits of Spanish moss to bolster the avian abode. (Mrs. Osprey, however, was quite discerning about the decor and tossed a few of his offerings over the side.)
While walking along the water’s edge near the area where anglers can clean their catch of the day, NPS worker Jose Lugo pointed out to me a crocodile sleeping on a boat ramp. I didn’t want to scare her, so I kept quiet but was able to walk up the dock and observe her from above. (It is important not to disturb any animals at the park, or risk fines of up to $5,000.) Both crocodiles and alligators can be found in the Everglades, but the water in Flamingo is brackish, so crocs make their homes here, while alligators can be found farther north where the water is fresh. Crocodiles are also more green in colour, while alligators are darker, closer to black. These large reptiles need to lie in the sun in order to warm themselves, especially when the nights are cooler. Later in the day, I returned to find two crocs now sleeping on the ramp.
That afternoon, we were taken by boat into the “back country” – upstream through a series of man-made canals and into Coot Bay and Whitewater Bay. The canals are lined with mangrove trees, in the three varieties, black, white and red. The water is similar in colour to a cup of tea, thanks to the red mangrove leaves, which contain tannins, the same chemical compound that gives tea and red wine their hues.
Nestled in the trees are the odd mahogany tree, and growing in and amongst the mangroves are little bromeliads, which look like the spiky top of a pineapple. Unlike their sweet fruity cousins that grow on a terrestrial bush, these bromeliads grow on branches of other trees.
Along the banks of the canal among the mangroves, we spotted a small crocodile, and several birds, including a roseate spoonbill.
The bays are home to many creatures, and sharks, dolphins, and other species often use this area to raise their young away from the more harsh conditions of the Gulf of Mexico.
In the evening, wind down from a day of sightseeing and birdwatching by taking a leisurely walk down the Guy Bradley Trail behind the lodge and out to the water’s edge for a delightful view of the sunset – just remember to bring some bug spray.
IF YOU GO
– There are no TVs in the rooms at the lodge, and the Wi-Fi signal cannot facilitate streaming. If you must watch your stories, download them to your device before your arrival.
– Only some of the rooms are accessible by elevator, so if stairs are difficult for you, be sure to book the correct room.
– Thinking of casting a line? The restaurant offers a “cook your catch” service, and grills are provided outside if you prefer to prepare your own, but cooking fish inside your room is forbidden.
BONUS TIP
On your way back to Miami, save time for a stop at Robert is Here – a fruit stand/petting zoo/smoothie bar (and more) located in Homestead. In the name of science, I had to try the local staple, key lime tart. Verdict’s in: cool, creamy, and flavourful. There are plenty of cute critters to befriend, including rescued turtles, goats, and a talking bird that didn’t seem to like me. Inside, shelves are lined with a plethora of preserves, honey, and other jarred goods, safe to travel home with. You can even stop for a chat with Robert himself.
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